ULTIMATE JATUJAK GUIDE

INTRODUCTION

We have been since 2005 on the Jatujak Market in Bangkok. In this post we would like to give you an overview and some assistance about the market. Sometimes, it is pretty difficult to find some orientation as it is massive. It is nearly a small town on its own.

THE JATUJAK MARKET

The largest market in Thailand includes over 8,000 shops in 27 sections. As you can read as well on wikipedia, there are nine different kinds of goods (1). You can find almost everything from textiles and handicrafts which you expect from any market. However, you cannot categorize all these articles that easily. There are offered clothes, garments, accessories, decorations, household articles, food, lamps and a lot of other things. The Jatujak Market could be divided according to its zones until a decade back but different zones have blended since then. However, there are still divisions between the stalls according to logic and common sense. So, you will not find a pet shop beside a restaurant and no lamp shop beside fountains.

TRANSPORT

There are many possibilities nowadays to get to and from the market.. There have been times that it was not easy to get to the market but actually this changed. I still remember the market when it was difficult to get there and the only options were taxis and buses. These were the times of kilometer long traffic jams. There are still large traffic jams around the area but it has improved in the last twenty years. Nowadays, it looks much better. In 1999, on the 5th December for the 72nd birthday of Thailand's King, the Skytrain or Bangkok Transport System opened its service. The 72nd birthday of the King was a special day as he concluded the 6th life cycle. The Thais, same as the Chinese, divide the life cycles into periods of 12 years.  One of the first stations of the BTS was Morchit, only a few hundred meters away from Jatujak. This made it much easier to gain access to the market. A few years later, in 2004, Bangkok introduced the Bangkok Metro, locally know as MRT, Mass Rapid Transport. This made it super easy to get to the market from almost every point of the city. Therefor, now you have many options to get to Jatujak, by bus, BTS, MRT, taxi, tuk tuk and motorbike taxi.

One of the obstacles is to get away from it if you have made large purchases. You have a load of shopping bags and don’t want to carry them around but go quickly to your hotel. There is then the essential question if you consider as an option taxi or tuk tuk? Now, they are all around you as soon that you leave the market. They will directly storm towards you and make you price offers. Please, do not follow these suggested fees! I am sorry, but most of these drivers do not fit into the full shopping experience of buying stuff and getting it easily home. They simply do not cooperate with the traders to make the customers feel welcome and cared for. Most taxis will try to rip you off! Wouldn't it be nice to just relax and travel satisfied back to your hotel or home?  Unfortunately the prices they ask you for are ridiculous! They are as extreme that they even offer me, who speaks fluently Thai, prices that I am asking myself if they are really feeling well. This makes me angry! I, as a business man, would like to have satisfied customers who have a pleasant trip back to their shelter. This does not leave me another opportunity then to warn people who go to Jatujak. Most of the taxis, literally, hanging around are cutthroats. The drivers, I hope I do not sound arrogant, have only good business because we are selling on the market. Without the market the drivers would find themselves back in the periphery of Bangkok without any customers.  Jatujak is thereby one of a few extremes, but never take a taxi that is just waiting for customers. This even applies for the taxis that are waiting for customers on Patpong, Sukhumvit and other tourist places of the city. If they would like to make money they were driving around trying to look for customers. The taxis that wait just seem to have the only desire of making big bugs out of a few inexperienced people. Please, do not get into these parking taxis. You do not have to do that! It is totally accepted to stop a passing taxi, independently how many taxis are waiting in front of your hotel. Thais do the same! These passing taxis will usually offer you to drive on the taximeter. At Jatujak they will even be happy to get a customer who wants to travel into the center of the city.  Well, as long people do not get informed, the circumstances will not improve about this means of transport. So, even on Jatujak, just go to the street and waiting for a passing cab. It might not be the first one that takes you but just don’t become desperate. A little patience helps in most cases.

BUSINESS HOURS

All sections of the market are open between Friday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Only some shops are opening earlier and closing later. We, as an example, stay sometimes as long as possible until we do not see any opportunity of customers anymore. This means that we are sometimes closing our shops at 8 p.m.  
Friday, originally, was a wholesale day. This has changed in recent years. There are always some tourists on the market as well. We have observed additionally that some Chinese Travel Agencies plan their tours on that day. However, there are opened less than a third of the shops on a Friday. Only the committed wholesalers open their businesses, including ourselves.

The flower section is the only section entitled to open on Thursdays. Other shops are allowed to organize their shops and prepare for the coming weekend on that day but sale is prohibited. On the other days, from Monday to Wednesday, the gates of the Jatujak Market stay closed. 

However, these restrictions do not affect the Jatujak Mall and the so called Jatujak Plaza which is between the actual market and the mall. The Plaza is usually more expensive than the market but good for the purchase of furniture and animals, particularly fish and dogs. The best cargo businesses and carrier services you will find in the Plaza as well. 

ORIENTATION

It might be confusing at the beginning to find your way around the different sections. Well, no wonder, most categories of articles are offered, as above mentioned, in a quite mixed arrangement of shops. However, I hope to be able to give you some guidance. Unfortunately, most maps on Google Images are either out of date or not accurate. First, the most important overview. Many of the clothes shops are in the sections which are located along the fence of the market at the Kamphaeng Phet 3 and Vibhavadee Rangsit Road, these are sections 2 to 6. Then there is section 7, a fabulous art corner. There you will find amazing paintings of Thai artists. However, you will not get the best deals on art here. If you want to purchase art then I advice you to go directly to the provincial towns and visit the local galleries. Sometimes, the universities of art conduct art exhibitions with works from their students as well. 

Now, it starts to be a little bit more difficult for your orientation. In the sections with higher even numbers the focus is on textiles. There you can find good deals for shorts, skirts, batik, the popular fisherman pants, T-shirts, underwear and a lot more of different garments. Other handicraft such as wood works, porcelain such as the famous Benjarong, metal works, glass and hilltribe textiles you will find in the sections with higher odd numbers. Section 9 is a special section. Here you may purchase animals, mainly dogs and cats and pet supply such as fodder, leashes and animal toys. However, if you are looking for exotic animals, you will be disappointed. The government has prohibited any sale of them. Thailand has finally come to the point to protect its endangered species.

The Plaza is a special section. It has opened daily and you can purchase a wide selections of diverse items. Particularly, it is the section for fish and aquariums. The JJ Mall is a smaller department store with air condition. Here you may find banks, money exchange and a few restaurants. However, the prices here are the highest in the whole area. Indeed, you have to pay for the luxury of not getting hot.

PRICE DIFFERENCES

It is at times confusing to understand the philosophy of different prices on the market. There are reasons! The first is that different shop owners have to pay different rent. This affects the price. However, the shops with the highest rent have generally also the best location.  

I will try now to describe the structure of the market. There are two main ways. These build practically a long stretched oval. These two ways are broad and their displays are easily visible for every visitor. The most tourists and tours will keep on these ways. Unfortunately, the majority of the shopkeepers  have the bad attitude to block entrance ways to other shops in the interior. So, visitors who have not so much time, don't know the surroundings well or are a bit shy will only see these shops on the oval. This is a pity as it is not fair. As said before, these shops have the best locations so there would be no need trying to suppress the competition. This is actually the behaviour of bully. 

 This oval is cut through a longer way which leads to the clock tower. The rent on this alley is not that high anymore. However, the two main entrance ways of it are usually blocked by two shops which sell beverages. Therefor, it is pretty difficult to get on this way. So, that you can visualize it easier imagine an oval cut in the middle such as the average sign Ø There are smaller ways running from this alley almost in a right angle in the middle like fish bones. These are connected from other ways. So, at the end you can imagine an oval with a raster in its center. I hope I did not confuse you now additionally. The trick to get to this raster is to look for fat black numbers which are underlined by an orange square. These are the ways which lead you to the alleys in the center. These shops in the center have lower rent and can sell you the articles on many occasions much cheaper. Independently on the size of the shop. You just have to compare them and try your luck. 

IT DOESN'T HURT TO ASK!

Most traders will be happy if you show interest in their articles. Certainly, there are some bad-tempered sales people who are only interested if a shopper buys something. This is a minority! We, as traders, do not only sell our goods, we represent a cultural side of Thailand! Take your time to look at different items. You can even touch them, hold them and observe them.  Experience the beauty of Thai handicraft! Certainly there will be some traders who are very careful that you don't break anything such as if you go shopping in a shop with glass figurines. If sales people are able to speak English they will be happy to practice it with you. Please, have some understanding for the other kind of sales person who directly run towards you as soon you have entered their shop. Some Thais have not learned yet that many foreigners see it as a virtue to be reserved. They would not do the same with Thai people but please do not see it as an offense. However, if a sales person is really rude you can still leave their shop.  Please, understand that most sales people will not find it appropriate if you take pictures of their goods without buying anything. But honestly, would you do that in your own country? 
There are some shoppers that put the items already into their shopping bag before they have paid. I do not exaggerate, I have seen it really a few times. Some people just think that they are guests in Thailand and so they can behave as they want. So, let me spell it out very frankly, putting things into your bag without having paid is close to stealing!  We have no understanding for an attitude like that! 

TECHNIQUES FOR TRADING

Generally, if you like an article and want to purchase it, then ask for the price. If their is a declared price then this question can however be slightly confusing. So, you can avoid this awkward situation if you look first for a price declaration. There is no price? Okay, then ask. A basic fact, if there is no price then you can haggle much better. This doesn't mean it will be a good price tho! 

Now, there are some people that must consider themselves as funny. They ask for the lowest possible price but want only to purchase one article. Excuse me, did you maybe want to ask 'is there a discount possible?' and not 'what is your lowest price?' Fortunately, most sales people on Jatujak are already used to these jesters. If you are kind, smile and are polite then probably most sellers will reduce the price slightly. Even if the price was declared! However, the price will not be reduced to 140 Baht if it was declared as 185 Baht in a decent shop. If it happened to you, sorry to shake you wake you were certainly ripped off! The usual discounted price of a single item declared at 185 Baht will be 180 Baht, eventually 170 Baht. Please imagine what just happened in this situation.  You just asked for a discount. The trader was accommodating you to give you a small discount. However, you cannot expect a large discount on single items. Particularly, if the price had a declaration. Asking for a too big discount can come close to an insult. You actually express without saying it 'I do not trust you!' Any decent sales person will not feel well being confronted like this.  Do you display such a behaviour in your home country? Or do you think you can do that because it is Thailand? Would you, at home, ask for a reduction in price on a single item of 30%? Throw your travel guide away if it suggested you to do that!  I explained in a previous post the misinformation provided by these books, therefor I will not go into detail. Please, use at bargaining logic and common sense. If the price is not declared there are different rules. Usually these traders calculate the haggle in advance. I doubt that you will get the cheapest price at these shops.

There are other jokers who ask for the wholesale price without the intention to buy more than a single piece. After they have heard the wholesale price they insist on buying then their single piece for the wholesale price. Well, they must have lost the plot!  Some of them are even surprised if the Thai smile turns then into pure ignorance. Would you like it if a shopper tried to take the piss out of you? Therefor, please do the sales people the favour only to ask for the amount of items that you really consider to purchase at that time. A trade is not only a deal, it affects interpersonal relations. You do not want to put a bad shadow on these relations, do you?

The basic rules for bargaining are friendliness, honesty and patience. Thais like it to be friendly and to meet kind people who smile. A smile can open doors! They do not appreciate angry shoppers. The day is long, there will come a lot of people into the shop so a good mood is essential. Therefor, they will try to avoid any aggression. Honesty, as mentioned above, is important as well. Particularly if you want to establish a long lasting business relation. This is only possible if both parties are approachable and do not play tricks on each other. Patience affects many parts of communication and behaviour. Most Thais, unfortunately, are not very well equipped in English. This can generate misunderstandings. If this happens, please stay calm. It was not the evil mind of the sales person that there was an error in communication. Some Thais need as well time to comprehend your price offer. It is better to ask a couple of time than to run angrily out of a shop. Be as well patient with yourself. Take your time to think. Sometimes, you realize, after a while, that you actually need more articles and then a bargain becomes even easier.  Everything needs time. If you bring with you the time and the right mindset you will have lots of fun in shopping on Jatujak! 

WHAT IS THE BEST TIME?

This depends on the purpose of your visit on Jatujak Market. If you are not interested in wholesale then I suggest to come in the morning around 10 a.m. The most shops will be open at that time and it is not too hot, yet. You will even have less problems to spot the alleys which lead into the interior of the market. The most traders will be in a good mood, hoping for a successful business day. It might be difficult to make good bargains at this time. Some sales people will be very optimistic in the morning and are not panicking not to sell anything on that day. We, usually, try to make the first deal as early as possible so that it is a good start into the day tho. Most professional sales people have this attitude as any sale is counted as important. At other shops it does not make a difference when you come because they are confident if they don't sell anything on that day then there will be better days. Te psychology of the majority of shopkeepers however is that they do not rush into making trades in the morning. In the afternoon, after 3 p.m., your chances to haggle might be increased. Some sales people are happy to sell anything if the day has not run well so far. However, there are many shops that close at 5 p.m. They have given up the hope for a good trading day. In the evening after 5 p.m. most wholesalers are quite busy because they have to organise the packaging for their customers and may not have that much time for you. 

FACING RESTRICTIONS

The weather is a big factor for shopping on Jatujak. On rainy days it is not that good to walk only the oval. There is no protection against the rain and sometimes it is even flooded. However, a rainy day may not be that bad. Maybe you like these days because it will not be too hot. That is also the best time to visit the shops in the interior. There, you have good protection because most parts have a roof. Most sales people will be very friendly on these days because every customer will make a difference. There are not so many customers and they will have more time for you. Then is the best time to haggle. Just, don't be impolite.

On hot days in March and in April it gets unbearably hot in the interior part. It is too hot to walk on the oval as well. The best months for shopping should be between November and February. The weather is quite pleasant. There are also not many tourists. April is not a good month at all. It is hot and particularly around the Thai New Year, Songkran, most of the shops will be closed. A majority of traders stays in their home provinces and celebrates with their families.

Wholesale should be done on a Friday. There are less shops open and there is less traffic. Most professional shop owners open their stalls. They have on this day a lot of time to talk with you about business. These shops are generally the best for wholesale. However, the above mentioned situation in April affects wholesale most. As in the previous post mentioned, around Songkran there is usually a bottleneck situation. As most people in Thailand do not work in this time, it might be difficult to satisfy large demands.

WHERE CAN I MAKE A BREAK?

You really like Jatujak and have walked around for a few hours. You would like to continue your visit and shop some more. However, you are tired and would like to sit down, have a snack or drink a coffee. There are many opportunities on the market to do so. There are many food stalls and some cheap restaurants for different budgets. The cheapest alternatives are Thai food stalls with Thai dishes. However, out of my personal view, they are not directly pearls of culinary Thailand. Another option are the noodle shops which offer you noodles such as in any part of the country. You can also get western and Korean food on the market. If you do not want to eat in the heat, then I suggest you to go to Jatujak Mall. There are some quite good restaurants. 

The Jatujak Market is certainly not a cheap place to eat. However, it is still affordable. You have to calculate an additional charge of around 50% than at other parts of the city. The price for a standard Thai meal should be around 50 Baht, for western or Korean food around 200 Baht. It is more expensive than at food stalls on the street but still less than in a hotel. Trust me, you won't starve on Jatujak! 

HYGIENE!

That is unfortunately one of the big set-backs of the market. There are public toilets but no flushing toilets. They can be visited for 2 Baht. Don't worry if you don't have the coins, the toilet women will change for you. Unfortunately, there is no toilet paper. The toilets are not very clean. Keeping them clean seems impossible if you think of the thousands of daily visitors. It gets extreme in the rainy season. Then these toilets are even flooded. This part will probably annoy most tourists. If you are looking for flushing clean toilets, go to Jatujak Mall.

Worse are the rats. There are really fat Jatujak rats! They can be found on all the alleys. It is no surprise as the water flows together under the metal steps of the stores. It is a real rat paradise! Don't worry that much! I have never heard that a customer has been bitten by one of them. If you are afraid of these pests, then I advise you to wear good shoes. 

Smoking has been prohibited on the market. It has become dangerous and some accidents happened already. Therefor, even in the open alleys do not smoke! If you are smoking and get caught by one of the guards this will cost you 2,000 Baht!

SAFETY

Thailand is considered as one of the safest countries for female travelers (2). On another web site I saw that it is suggested as an ideal location for start backpacking (3). On the other hand there are always reports about pickpockets on Jatujak Market. I feel personally safe in Thailand. The pickpockets are even not Thai. They are members of gangs of Filipinos, Cambodian and Vietnamese. In general I consider the market s a safe location.  However there will always be some bad apples wherever you go.

CONCLUSION

I can definitely suggest you to visit Jatujak Market. There are many reasons such as wholesale or just to see the cultural sides of a Thai market. You will almost certainly find suitable prices and high quality. A visit on the market covering all sites can't be done on a single day. It is just too large! I have once walked the entire market with all its alleys to look for best locations for our shops. It took me almost four days. Take your time and make a plan in advance about the things that you would like to buy, see and are interested in. Once more, I would like to advise you to take public transport. It is the fastest and cheapest way to get there. If you come with the BTS or MRT a journey to Jatujak will cost you around 40 Baht and takes around 30 minutes. Please, do not let taxi drivers annoy you if you depart again. 

1) wikipedia. Chatuchak Weekend Market  

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chatuchak_Weekend_Market

2) World Nomads. Thailand travel for women. Read this for some hot tips

https://www.worldnomads.com/travel-safety/southeast-asia/thailand/women-s-safety-in-thailand

3) Bemused Backpacker. Why Thailand is the ultimate first backpacking destination.

https://bemusedbackpacker.com/2013/10/14/why-thailand-is-the-ultimate-first-time-backpacking-destination/